Why Wimbledon loves a controversial fashion moment on court
After the week that is, what relief to be absorbed into the fastidious sartorial guidelines of South-west London???s finest purveyors of sporting dignity.
Or not, as the case may be??? viewers (and questions of taste) have already been sent spinning by the erm, fluidity of Nike???s "Premier Slam??? dress: a sort of sporty, baby doll, thigh-skirting pleated mini dress worn by Czech Republic first round winner Lucie Safarova on Monday, which floated up perilously throughout play.
Germany???s Sabine Lisicki, instead played it safe and chose a traditional vest and skirt combination, saying she had tried the dress on, but ???didn???t feel comfortable showing that much.???
Whilst the dress doesn???t contravene any of the All England club???s rules (which mostly hinge on wearing white and upholding ???common standards of decency???), Nike requested that players return the dresses, which have been likened to nighties by some, for alterations just days before the tournament was set to begin.
In a statement, since, they insisted, ???the product has not been recalled and we often customize products and make alterations for athletes as they compete.We work closely with our athletes to provide them with product that helps them perform and feel their best on the court.???
Serena Williams, also sponsored by Nike, made her Centre Court debut yesterday in a slightly different version of the design (made bespokely for her ??? a player of her clout wouldn???t wear the same outfit as lower ranking players, who will pick something from the collection), which kept the pleated mini skirt detail and high neck, but featured a more user-friendly close-cut bodice.
Pleats and frills ??? currently the fashion world???s favoured tropes ??? feature fairly heavily in this season???s Wimbledon attire, across all courts.Lacoste ??? who will outfit American player Christina McHale and Russian Elena Vesnina during the tournament - have also opted for pleated skirts, which nod as much to current trends as to classic preppy tennis style.
Wimbledon spectators galleryMeanwhile, Karoline Wozniacki and Garbi??e Muguruza will sport the cool, modern-looking adidas by Stella McCartney Barricade collection, which features laser-cut mesh fabric in zones that require ???superior breathability???, as well as technology to help regulate players??? temperature.
Of course, a bit of knicker flashing at Wimbledon is nothing new.The evolution of tennis from a gentle game, which slowly overtook croquet as the Victorians??? favourite after-afternoon tea activity, before going on to become a highly vigorous and competitive sport, necessitated an obvious shift in attire ??? if not in attitudes towards players??? style.
In 1919, French winner Suzanne Lenglen raised eyebrows for competing in a short-sleeved, calf-length pleated dress: sanspetticoat.Her signature look was to wear a thick headband whilst playing; something which was much aped by her fans of the day.
By the time Gertrude Moran - ???Gorgeous Gussie???- exposed her ruffled knickers under her rather skimpy skirt in 1949, Wimbledon - and tennis - had cemented itself as a forum for fashion and style statements as much as sporting prowess.It???s perhaps no surprise that two players, Ren??Lacoste and Fred Perry, have a legacy as fashion labels as well as sporting heroes.
Fashion ??? that provocative little sneak ??? comes, of course, in many guises; especially on court, where it can be employed as a weapon of sorts.In 1985, Anne White???s shiny white catsuit (which, with hindsight, looks more like rave gear than sportswear) distracted her opponent Pam Shriver so much that she lost - later complaining to officials that White shouldn???t wear her outfit ever again.
Serena and Venus Williams have created striking on court looks since their early debut, where their matching braided hair ??? along with their playing skills - didn???t just nudge their oponents??? focuts, but ensured that no one forgot who they were.The former sister warmed up in a white trench on court in 2008, while the latter has since launched her own sportswear line ???EleVen by Venus Williams.
Provocative style is something which can be seen as much in the men???s game as women???s ??? who but Roger Federer could get away with turning up on court in a Gentleman???s blazer or tote a gold lam?? bag?
15 stylish tennis buysThere is a certain sense of power play going on with any player???s ensemble.The intention being to unsettle their opponent with a forceful show of confidence and bravado as they peacock onto the court.James Rose, director of tennis at La Manga club in Spain, who trains Wimbledon hopefuls, asserts that confidence is key.???Great clothing gives players a boost to their aura,??? he says.???Maybe that???s worth one or two points in a game, but sometimes that???s what tennis comes down to.If a player feels good, they???ll play well.???
In the modern game, of course, the power of sponsorship deals is crucial:Anna Kournikova didn???t become the world???s highest-earning tennis player thanks to her on-court skill.Brands will work closely with players to develop outfits they feel happy in, but these pieces will be sold widely off the back of their popularity and appearances; hence an element of picture appeal matters almost as much as the technical innovations of fabrics and fit.
That???s just tennis.
Wimbledon dress codeREAD:The best tennis buys