'I love the statement that made':Michael Kors nods to the Time's Up movement with black dresses in latest collection
Michael Kors has been one of the princes of American fashion for many years.Following Carolina Herrera"s final bow earlier this week, he"s keen to make the case for himself and Marc Jacobs as the new kings of the US fashion industry.“We are like the new Bill Blass and Oscar de la Renta, although lets not forget Ralph Lauren,” he laughed at a preview of his autumn-winter show.
Theres no doubt that Kors heads up one of the most visible fashion brands in the world, with sales of $4.6 billion predicted this year - you cant walk far in most cities without seeing one of handbags on someones arm.But just to make sure, Kors put himself front and centre of his latest show.A riff on a vintage film poster - Federico Fellini was one of the collections references - had been created showing Kors in a jolly mid-air heel tap.The clothes, the setting and the models “were all the things that I love.”
Kors new favourite phrase was “swipe, swipe, swipe,” his shorthand for the inspirations and cultural touchstones which fly at us from all directions.Sex and the Citys Carrie Bradshaw, Rihanna, Zendaya and Audrey Hepburn were just a few of the names which Kors reeled off as muses for a collection which recognised that trends in their traditional form are over and that personal style rules."We live in this fractured world.The times when you could say everyones wearing pink! are over, he declared.
By its very nature, this look is about a creative pick-and-mix approach which could never be sourced from one designer alone; Carrie Bradshaw achieved her kooky chic look with a high-low mix of flea market furs and Manolo Blahnik heels.
But Kors did a convincing job presenting the most eclectic of wardrobes across 74 looks.Leopard print and tartan jostled with ditsy florals and logo sweatshirts, wellies were worn with wallpaper print prom skirts and boyish argyle knits were embellished with twinkly constellations of crystals.“Carrie would wear this for day, but Audrey would wear it at night,” Kors observed of the latter.
He was also unafraid to addressa zeitgeist topic which others have been more reluctant to openly refer to; a series of black dresses in the final section of the show were a nod to the Times Up movements black Golden Globes red carpet dress code- “I love the statement that made, but it also made me think about silhouette and the power of black to show that off.”
Of all the major names to show this week, Kors cast of models was also the most refreshingly realistic, with ages ranging from teens to middle age and sizes zero to 16 represented as well as a mix of ethnicities.Adwoa Aboah and Bella Hadid, representing the Insta- girl generation, were joined by 47 year-old veteran model Kirsten Owen and curvy supermodel Ashley Graham.It was an optimistic note to round off the week.